Stefano Politi Markovina
aldama

Playing aldama in Doha

Shooting a few photos at dusk of Doha’s stunning technicolor skyline. Seen from the top of a small hill in this lovely public garden, downtown Doha in the distance looks like a vast stretch of shining, colorful skyscrapers packed against the horizon.

Under a dramatic red-orange sky, this vertical architectural splendor in front of me symbolizes Qatar’s rapid growth and massive investments. On the flank of the hill, gently sloping down toward the sea, the beautiful winter sunset has drawn many local couples and families. They are enjoying the view and the pleasant winter temperature.

Children greet me as they pass by on skateboards. A little farther ahead, a young couple, holding hands, is eager to steal a kiss. A serene atmosphere has accompanied me ever since I landed on the Arabian Peninsula for my photo shoot.

On the way back to my hotel, I choose a pleasant detour through the labyrinthine and vibrant souk marketplace. I stop at a small café frequented only by locals. Inside, red carpets on the floor, vintage pictures on the walls, and a warm atmosphere welcome me.

doha qatar

Some men are busy smoking sheesha, others playing aldama, an old Turkish game similar to backgammon. Curious about the game, as soon as I stand next to the players, the café owner brings me a small glass of traditional cardamom coffee. Handsome, tall, and elegantly dressed in his traditional long white tunic with a keffiyeh, he could easily be a fashion model—like many other men I have seen in this part of the world.

While sipping my hot cardamom coffee, I begin to follow the game. Everything happens very suddenly, and I’m not quite sure how. After hesitating for a while, I ask the players if I can take some photos of them while they play aldama. They smile and say yes.

After two minutes, I am invited to sit next to them. After five minutes, following a quick explanation of the rules, I am invited to join the game. I am offered some delicious local toasted sesame seed cookies, more coffee, and finally a cup of hot tea.

Within the hour, I am introduced to all the café’s customers. One of them, knowing that I live in Spain, calls a friend from Valencia he had met a few months earlier via WhatsApp and then hands me the phone so we can chat. Another customer invites me to play another round of aldama. Everyone is incredibly friendly and welcoming.

Before leaving, I go to pay, but the café owner won’t hear of it. I am not allowed to pay for any of the coffees or cookies I had! As I happily step back into the street, a mix of spicy fragrances and the sweet scent of sheesha greets me along the bustling souk alleys. I truly love the Middle East.